Enclosure Construction
Proper monitor husbandry begins with the enclosure. Commercially produced enclosures are occasionally available but they are often far more expensive than the DIY option and arguably not nearly as efficient or effective in properly housing most monitors. Between the initial cost, freight charge, and processing/lead time until you receive the enclosure its often not a feasible option. Building the enclosure yourself allows for the hobbyist to be control of designing the setup to accommodate the specific needs of the inhabitant. In this section, we’ll discuss the size of the enclosure, materials used to construct, lighting, heat, and accessibility for the hobbyist. I’ve also linked the products to this page so you can easily purchase the materials used on Amazon.
Size: Selecting the size of your enclosure seems obvious but its an aspect that isn’t always considered entirely. Acquiring a hatchling Tree Monitor is an exciting moment. The hobbyist typically wants to furnish the enclosure with lush greenery, cork bark hides, moist substrate, etc. While all of that is wonderful for an adult, for a fragile hatchling its often a death sentence. Recognizing that the enclosure’s size should grow with the animal. Starting out with an appropriately sized setup that facilitates the basics should be the primary goal for housing hatchlings. We recommend and use 20 gallon long aquariums and similarly sized ExoTerra enclosures for hatchlings. The goal should be to create an enclosure that allows for easy observation to ensure that the hatchling is consuming sufficient amounts of food/prey, staying hydrated, and able to thermoregulate. A densely planted enclosure prevents all of this from being confirmed by the hobbyist and therefore should be reserved until the animal is larger and less fragile in size.
Materials: All of our DIY enclosures are constructed from materials that can be purchased at Home Depot, Amazon, and other online retailers.
Walls are constructed from 3/4” pressure treated plywood. The reason for selecting this specific material is because the reptiles that we maintain require some level of humidity. Using untreated plywood would rot over time which for obvious reasons would create problems for the enclosure.
Seams are sealed with DAP caulking which is paintable silicone caulking. This product will help with preventing water from leaking out of the bottom while also preventing prey items (bugs) from having an easy escape route. The reality of keeping reptiles is that occasionally some of those bugs are going to escape into the enclosure. Sealing the seams and having a secure door/opening is the only way to effectively keep inhabitants in place.
The enclosures are heated using halogen/incandescent bulbs. We prefer and recommend the Philips EcoVantage floodlight. Philips offers a 90w equivalent, 75w equivalent, and 50w equivalent. This wide range of wattage allows the hobbyist to utilize the appropriately sized bulb to achieve the necessary basking surface temps and ambient air temps.
Lighting fixture is an easy and often over thought part of enclosure design. The objective should be to utilize a fixture that can (a) focus the beam of light downward towards the basking surface (b) safely disperse the heat generated from the basking bulb. A plastic fixture is dangerous to the animal and the hobbyist because it can and often will quickly overheat, melt, and catch fire. Abstain from anything other than metal or ceramic for fixture options. We recommend and utilize bathroom vanity fixtures commonly sold on Amazon. They are designed in a manner that allows for easy installation, focuses the beam of light downward, and safely handles and disperses the heat generated from the light. The brand that we often utilize is Hampton Bay. They come in 3-bulb and 4-bulb options but we recommend the 4 bulb fixture. Reasoning is simple, you don’t have to utilize all 4 bulbs but having the option is incredibly beneficial in the long run. Some enclosures only need a single bulb option so in that situation a simple ceramic fixture can be utilized. Wiring them is beyond simple but if you’re uncomfortable with completing the wiring, hire an electrician or handyman. Some effort should be made to determine the appropriate distance between the bulb and the basking platform. To close and your basking surface temps will simply be to hot for the animal and to far away you’ll not be able to achieve the desired surface temp. So, be flexible in your design during the lighting/heat stage. Determine a rough idea where you want the basking site and install your lights first. Then, adjust the height of the basking platform until you determine which bulb is best in conjunction with the distance to the platform. Rushing this step or ignoring it will prove to be an issue later on so don’t ignore this step.
Accessing the enclosure is an important aspect that shouldn’t be ignored. We recommend and utilize an in-swing casement window which is also referred to as a hopper window or basement egress window. Selecting the size is as easy as measuring the space that its going to be attached and selecting an appropriate size that allows for sufficient room for the flange to be affixed to the plywood front. An example would be if the front of your enclosure is 48” wide x 48” tall, I would order a custom sized window measuring 40”x40”. This allows for 4” of room all around the window which allows for easy installation with maximum viewing. When ordering, ensure that you order WITH the flange because this is the part that gets attached to the plywood. We order our custom sized windows from American Window Products, LLC. .
Backgrounds are both aesthetically pleasing and a functional part of husbandry. All monitors regardless of their size will benefit from an increase in usable surface space. Meaning, cover the walls in something that the animal can utilize/climb on. Some simple options would include PVC lattice but we recommend and utilize Universal Rocks Backgrounds. They come in a wide range of textures and can be custom ordered to accommodate any enclosure. While an expensive option, they’re also functional and incredibly realistic and super tough. They easily withstand the abuse of a monitor clawing and it regardless of the animals size. They’re a magnificent product option that will be beautiful, functional, and lasting whether you’re housing a 7’ powerful Water Monitor (varanus salvator) or the tiny Pygmy Rock Monitor. If utilizing this option, go with the aqua version because its far more sturdy than their hard-foam option and it is flexible which makes installation so much easier. They have standard sizes to fit most ExoTerra enclosures as well as aquariums but they can also be custom ordered to fit the needs of your DIY enclosure.